Sunday, May 14, 2006

How to Make Gnocchi - Parisienne, French Style

Fluffy, Light, Not a Potato in Sight!

photograph picture how to make recipe for french-style gnocchi using pate choux instead of potato
After taking every aspect of pastry into account I have concluded that Pâte a Choux is the Queen of all Pastries. Pâte a Choux is versatile and delicious in whatever form you find her. Eclairs, gougeres, cream puffs, Paris Brest, beginets. Whichever way she comes, I love her. I love making Pâte a Choux too. Harold Mcgee describes the technique for its preparation as tediously elaborate but I disagree. I become an alchemist in the kitchen when I make Pâte a Choux, giving thanks to the medieval chef who dreamt up such a peculiar way of combining a set of simple ingredients with magical results.

You are probably most familiar with choux pastry in its baked form, when it has been popped into the oven where it transforms into a puffy golden shell. But did you know that the very same dough can be gently poached to produce the softest, pillow-like, adorable, little gnocchi too? Forget the potatoes! Next time you desire a creamy carb-fest for dinner, simply turn to your pantry for some basic ingredients and whip up a batch of these super-satisfying, eggy, smeary, filling, irresistable French-style gnocchi. Recipe below. Ooh la la!

Disclaimer: I know I suggested they were light, but that's kind of misleading. They seem light at first bite, but after two or three they get heavy pretty fast, especially if you drown them in a rich fatty sauce. You have been warned, they are not diet friendly, but they are worth it...


photograph picture how to make recipe for french-style gnocchi using pate choux instead of potato

Basic Gnocchi Recipe:
1 2/3 cups of whole milk
6 oz or 1.5 sticks of unsalted butter
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/3 cups of all purpose (plain) flour
4 or 5 eggs

Method:

- Read through all the instructions before you start this recipe.
- Line a couple of baking sheets with parchement paper and put them to one side.
- Measure and sift the flour into a jug or other container suitable for quick pouring.
- Have a wooden spoon at the ready.
- In a heavy saucepan gently heat the milk, butter and salt until the butter is melted and then bring to the boil.
- Take the pan off the heat and immediately pour all the flour at once into the milk and start beating all the ingredients together vigorously with the wooden spoon.
- After about a minute the dough will come away from the sides of the pan and form a ball of sorts. When that happens you can stop beating.
- If you have an electric mixer then put the ball of dough into the bowl of the mixer and leave it to cool for five minutes. If you don't have a mixer, a wooden spoon will suffice, tranfer the dough to a mixing bowl and rest those biceps for five minutes.
- Whilst the dough is cooling, fill a large pan with water, salt it well and bring it to the boil.
- Back to the dough. Adding one egg at a time, beat thoroughly to fully incorporate each one into the dough before adding the next one. Four eggs should be enough, but if you find that your dough is still very stiff and dry then beat in the extra egg.
- The next stage is to transfer your dough into a piping bag with a large, plain nozzle. It is easier to work in batches. I split the Pâte a Choux into three batches when working with this amount of dough.
- Adjust the pan of water to a gently rolling boil. Have a pair of scissors ready. In one hand hold the the piping bag and as you pipe the dough into the water, quickly snip them off into pillow shapes. The water will splash so if you have heat sensitive hands it might be an idea to wear protective gloves.
- The gnocchi take about five minutes to cook and will be ready when they float to the surface. Remove them with a slotted spoon and lay them out to dry on the baking trays. Repeat the process for the reamaining batches of dough.
- Liberally season with salt and freshly cracked black pepper

What Next?
The gnocchi will be good for a couple of days, refrigerated in this state, but they need to be baked with a sauce of your choice before serving. Bake in a preheated 425F oven for 10 - 20 minutes (Depending on whether you let the sauce cool or not first), with a few extra minutes under the broiler to brown the top.

Creamy sauces, tomato sauce, ragu or a meat sauce - all of these will work well with these gnocchi. Use your imagination! Here are a couple of sauces I have tried successfully...

Triple creme, Pancetta and Morel sauce:
For the sauce in the picture I pan-fried together a quarter of a pound of pancetta and a quarter of a pound of sliced morel mushrooms. When they were golden I took them off the heat and poured out all the excess fat. I then scooped out the centre of a half-pound triple-creme cheese and added that to the pan together with 1 1/2 cups of whipping cream. I simmered the ingredients together until thickened. I checked seasoning and added plently of black pepper. As the pancetta was salty I didn't need to add extra salt. I mixed this sauce with the gnocchi, tranferred to gratin dishes, topped with grated parmigiano and baked at 425F for twenty minutes until golden. (Finish under the broiler/grill if necessary.)

Blue Cheese Cream Sauce:
For a blue cheese sauce bring 5oz blue cheese of your choice, black pepper and 1 1/2 cups of heavy cream to the boil and then reduce to a gentle simmer until the sauce thickens and is reduced by a quarter of its volume. Combine with the gnocchi as detailed above. You can use one large gratin dish for baking, or smaller ramekins.

I took the gnocchi to a partially French-centric pot luck party last night. Although my French friends weren't familiar with their own brand of gnocchi, I don't think they are going to waste any more time before adopting it as their own.



Links, Resources and Further Reading

Bay Area Resources:
Pancetta | from The Fatted Calf
Morels | from Far West Funghi
Butter, milk and cream | from Straus Dairy
Mount Tam Triple Creme Cheese | from Cowgirl Creamery
Eggs | from Marin Sun Farms
Tante Marie French Cooking Class | by Jen Knapp
The Ferry Building | Market Place
Saturday Morning | Farmers Market

Other Resources:
Thank you for the cute little pink ramekins! | Lovely Lynette
Gnocchi a la Parisienne en Francais | via Del


Archive Alert! On this day in 2005: The first ever Bay Area Blogger of the Week


And on this day in 2004: F is for Foodles


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How to Make Gnocchi - Parisienne, French Style

21 Comments:

  • At 14/5/06 12:14, Blogger Chas Ravndal said…

    wow! it looks gorgeous and I am sure that it tastes delish as well!

     
  • At 14/5/06 13:39, Blogger Alanna said…

    Splendide, Sam, splendide!

     
  • At 14/5/06 14:05, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Tres beau site, belles photos... On reviendra.

    Stéphane

     
  • At 14/5/06 15:06, Anonymous L said…

    Gorgeous! I hadn't heard of gnocchi that wasn't with potatoes, but these look wonderful.

     
  • At 14/5/06 16:27, Blogger McAuliflower said…

    What a revelation Sam- in both your forming technique and your unmasking of our favorite little cabbage.

    Browning them off is my favorite- esp sauced with blue cheese and grapes.

     
  • At 14/5/06 18:19, Anonymous Ivonne said…

    Fantastic post, Sam!

    And I have to agree that Cream Puffs are the greatest!

     
  • At 15/5/06 01:06, Blogger tejal said…

    I am so with you on this Sam--pate a choux is completely underrated and not at all as complicated as some people would have us believe.

    I always thought when cooking it out on the stove that it smelled a bit like gnocchi, but I have never actually made a gnocchi dish this way before--thank you, I can't wait to try!

     
  • At 15/5/06 12:23, Blogger Monkey Gland said…

    aach...what do the French know about pasta!!?? They were still boiling it in milk for 20 minutes a couple of years ago!

    Actually, quite a lot by your picture...

     
  • At 15/5/06 12:48, Anonymous Clare said…

    What a fantastic idea! I, too, this choux pastry isn't that difficult to make. By the time I got to your "triple cream cheese" description I had died and gone to phat heaven. I will definitely be making this...

     
  • At 15/5/06 18:30, Blogger Del4yo said…

    Gnocchis ? Sam, call them "panade" and I buy it!! We stopped make panade half a century ago, that's the reason why nobody ever tasted it. Your version is luxuous, delicious, marvelous, exactly my idea of a dessert...*sigh*

    By the way, gnocchi (as pasta) is an Italian word!

    Pate in French is crust or dough
    Nouille is pasta
    Beignet is bun
    And I guess panade is gnocchi.


    Thank you Sam for the recipe.


    PS: monkey gland, where did you get that thing about boiling pasta in milk? I never heard about it before...Maybe there is an interesting recipe behind the tale?

     
  • At 15/5/06 20:11, Blogger Sam said…

    chas - it's not half bad, I tell you
    AK - merci
    Stephane - merci aussi
    L - I hope you have the chance to try it some time
    McCauliflower - I am liking the grape idea, thanks!
    Ivonne - of course - especially Venetian ones, eh?
    Tejal - looking forward to see how yours turn out
    Monkey Gland - I wonder if there is a long-lost British versionj of pasta? [especially if its better than a school-dinner-style dumpling]
    Clare - so I'll be seeing you up in phat heaven shortly ;)
    Del - But you don't have to buy it - I make it for you for free!
    Del -

     
  • At 15/5/06 23:17, Blogger shuna fish lydon said…

    this dough is the subject of my next class. thank you for highlighting its savoury side.

     
  • At 16/5/06 02:50, Anonymous lindy said…

    It's been ages since I made anything with this dough. I'm happy to be reminded of one of the coolest magic tricks in cooking. These look beautiful.

     
  • At 16/5/06 05:54, Blogger wheresmymind said…

    My cooking teacher made this recipe a couple weeks ago and saute'd them in brown butter and sage....mmmmm!!

     
  • At 16/5/06 06:39, Anonymous amanda said…

    Sam, you've out done yourself this time. These look exquisite!

     
  • At 16/5/06 20:52, Anonymous Barbara said…

    Brilliant.I've never head of gnocchi made this way. I look forward to trying it soon.

     
  • At 17/5/06 01:21, Blogger Amanda & Debbie said…

    Looks delicious. Beautiful pictures. Does it have a different taste/texture to the traditional potato gnocchi?

     
  • At 17/5/06 01:42, Anonymous Ms. Glaze said…

    Great post! I love gnocchi and I'm using it as my secret weapon for my upcoming exam at Le Cordon Bleu. Gnocchi with Choux is one of my favs because they puff up when cooking and melt in your mouth when eating ;-)

    I also find that stopping the cooking of gnocchi quickly in an icewater bath before refrigerating helps.

     
  • At 23/5/06 02:51, Blogger latifa said…

    Interesting!

     
  • At 13/1/09 13:51, Blogger www.recipemashups.com/ said…

    These look amazing! I just saw a Jacques Pepin recipe for Gnocchi Parisienne and found your blog while I was doing a little more research. Your sauces also look fabulous. Will definitely have to give this a try.

     
  • At 1/9/09 15:09, Anonymous catapillaGirl said…

    Very nice recipe. I love making gnocchi as it's slightly less time consuming than 'normal'

    pasta.
    Have you ever tried breadcrumb gnocchi? They are really good too. great site here for a potato ricer if you dont have one :) i saw Gordon

    Ramsay use one on the F-word and ordered one to give it a go. I totally recommend the oxo

    good grips one! :) its great if you have wet hands as it has rubber grips. lol

     

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